All this said. I’d recommend a switch that can VLAN and POE. I’m never buying anything non-POE again.
All this said. I’d recommend a switch that can VLAN and POE. I’m never buying anything non-POE again.
I know a basic ‘dumb’ switch can’t handle VLAN tags being passed through it, but something like the TP-Link ‘smart’ unmanaged switch (TL-SG108E) might allow it. It’s fanless and supports VLANs at least by physical separation and 802.1Q support.
According to ChatGPT:
Yes, the TP-Link TL-SG108E is a managed switch, and it supports VLAN functionality. This means that it can handle VLAN tagging and pass VLAN-tagged frames through its ports.
If you have an access point or any other device upstream that is tagging its frames with VLAN information, and you connect it to one of the ports on the TP-Link TL-SG108E, the switch should be able to pass those VLAN-tagged frames through to other devices on the network, provided that the other devices and the switch are properly configured to handle VLANs.
Keep in mind that for VLANs to work correctly, all the devices involved, including the switch and the devices connected to it, must be configured consistently with regard to VLAN settings. If you need to segregate network traffic using VLANs, you’ll need to configure the TP-Link TL-SG108E accordingly, specifying which ports are members of which VLANs. Additionally, the connected devices, such as the access point, should be configured to tag their frames with the appropriate VLAN identifiers.
You’ll be happy with either I think. I run Omada and it’s great for my home use. It was also less expensive and didn’t have supply chain issues when I was searching. Today, I’m not sure but I have seen many complaining anymore that UniFi just isn’t available. So I’m guessing they fixed that problem.
My argument. If the cable is permanently installed, put a keystone on it and afix it security. They are more robust this way as cable tweaking isn’t an issue now that it’s fixed in place. Then, patch cables from there. Cheap, easily replaced, disposable. While keeping the permanently installed wire unharmed from wear.
Huh!? I’ll personally need a use case that justifies spending more than $50 USD on a wired only router (ER605 for examples), vs. building my own or going full send into commercial or something like a firewalla gold.
Also why are you using a router to act as an Access Point. Just use an access point to get better results and save a tonne of $$$.
If the alternatives are still fiber, I’d suggest 50 min 100 max, save your money. Fiber is important because of outbound speeds (upload), and with fiber it’s generally a match to your download. Where coax (from the TV company) is about a 10% upload ratio to your download. Upload affects a ton that people don’t realize. Backing up your phone photos, video calls (your image is better), voice over WiFi (VoIP). 25 Mbps is totally fine for streaming (15-29Mbps for 4k) or gaming (game downloads take longer, but game play only needs like 1-2Mbos).
If those things don’t matter, then the only thing left is gaming. If you play online then ping/lag/latency should be your #1 concern, not download. The best way to assess this is to maybe ask any neighbors you bump into that you think might game. Do the “hey, I need to choose my Internet. Who do you have and how is it here?”.
Lastly. Don’t lock into a contract if you have multiple vendors if you can avoid it. This lets you flip flop if desired. Be like “I only need it for 2 months unless I get extended, and the other company waived the termination fee because I’m a nurse and might have to move soon again”