Ok, so I’ve been dealing with Asus routers for a while but over the last few years I’ve been having issues with them either dropping WiFi bands (but still saying they’re broadcasting) or just straight stop working (but all lights are still lit properly). So I’m at the point of not trusting them for anything mission critical. (RT-AC86U, RT-N56U)
The household right now is 2 adults working from home with Google Meet and sheets being used a decent amount with hardwired computers. Most wifi clients are smarthome things and a few cell phones. Streaming is currently limited to one hardwired Chromecast. I currently have an external HD attached to my router that’s used as a semi-NAS to mostly backup phone photos. It then synchs to off-site.
At this moment I’m now looking for a modem, switch (managed vs unmanaged?), and I guess one AP. If needed I can try adding one of the Asus routers as a second hardwired AP. I think I need around 6 ports but wouldn’t be opposed to having space for 12. ISP is Spectrum and am considering gigabit but currently receiving 140Mbps down, 11 up on 5ghz wifi. I’m using ISP provided modem, then whatever router/switch I end up with. I don’t really understand the difference between managed and unmanaged switches and what I need.
Based on a previous post I found a parts list would look like this:
TP-Link ER605
Aruba Instant On Switch (1430 8port or 1830)
Aruba Instant On AP22
But I’m open to other suggestions for parts or brands etc. Thanks for all the help!
I’ve never thought about this really. I’ll look in to it but do you have any suggestions as to how to find a power adapter that fits the same barrel fitting as well as what amperage to go up to?
Do you think that using the router to attach the external HDD adds extra stress on the unit and makes it more likely to crash?
You have a couple options. The easiest is to buy an adjustable power adapter. They’re about $20 on Amazon. They come with a bunch of “barrel tips” so it is very likely you’ll have one that matches. I have one of these adjustables to test and validate devices when the power adapter is missing or suspect. Pretty handy.
Otherwise, you need to know the voltage, polarity, minimum amperage, and jack size. The first three are easy because they are almost always declared on the old brick or the device itself. You don’t have to match the amperage, but the new adapter needs to supply at least the amperage of the original. For example, if your old supply was 1000 mA, a 1.5 Amp supply is fine but a 500 mA supply will not provide adequate power.
The physical jacks: you get to learn what they are through experience. The most popular are 2.1mm in diameter and 5.5 mm in length, with 2.5 mm diameter being the 2nd most popular. But there are many others. Sometimes if you look for a replacement adapter for your device the specs will actually say. Otherwise you’ll need to measure your old one.